A few weeks ago I wrote a story about Kimmy Williams, an esthetician at Acqua e Sapone in San Francisco. Williams has transformed my damaged skin in one month. How did she take my flaky, acne-prone, red, sensitive skin and give it a new look?
1. She had me ditch liquid foundation and start using Colorscience mineral makeup, which I'll talk more about in a few weeks.
2. She had me set aside my enormous bounty of skin care products and pare down what I use to just a few items, all within her non-comedogenic, personalized skincare line, Acqua e Sapone. I was willing to give it a shot. It's now a month later and my skin looks completely different. As a result, I wanted to share with readers why her products worked for me. Keep in mind, this is not a sponsored post. My conversation with Williams is below.
When I came in to see you, my skin was dehydrated, overexfoliated and under-moisturized. What products did you prescribe to me, and why?
I chose the Acqua e Sapone Gentle Gel Cleanser for you because it is an effective but mild cleanser that would not aggravate your compromised skin. Unlike most cleansers that use sulfates as foaming agents, this cleanser utilizes a non-irritating and sustainable ingredient called decyl glucose. This cleanser also suits your dehydrated skin because it contains the soothing and moisturizing properties of pro-vitamin B5.
Since you are on Tazorac (a prescription strength retinol), I could not give you the the Clarifying Toner that I usually give my acne clients because it contains a small percentage of salicylic acid. I still wanted to give you a toner because toning cleans off leftover residue, helps adjust the skin’s pH level, and prepares the skin for your active ingredients. I chose the Acqua e Sapone Lavender Toner for you because it contains the healing action of organic aloe and a natural compound called MSM which is known for its skin-repairing and anti-inflammatory properties.
C. Moisturizing Gel
The Acqua e Sapone Aqua Gel is a water-based moisturizing gel that contains the healing properties of aloe and the hydrating properties of hyaluronic acid. It is a great product because it can be applied under active products like benzoyl peroxide without decreasing the penetration or effectiveness of the active ingredient. It is also great because you can use it alone for light hydration, or you can layer it under your moisturizer of SPF for extra hydration without feeling greasy.
D. Cranberry Moisturizer
The Cranberry Cream is a rich moisturizer that smells yummy and contains tons of beneficial ingredients for every skin type. Cranberry and Totarol have naturally sanitizing and anti-microbial properties that are great for killing bacteria in acne prone skin. Both of these ingredients along with Tocomin also create a potent antioxidant cocktail so skin is protected from free radical damage that can break down collagen and cause signs of aging. I chose this particular moisturizer for you not just for its anti-aging properties but for its healing and soothing benefits too. Allantoin is a non-toxic, non-allergenic natural compound that promotes healing and quenches dry, dehydrated skin like yours by increasing the water content in skin cells.
Where did you get your training as an esthetician and what do you think makes your skills and knowledge different than others out there?
After getting my California Esthetics License, I received specialized training in the Face Reality method of acne treatment and eventually became a Certified Face Reality Acne Specialist. The Face Reality Acne Clinic was founded by Esthetician Laura Cooksey who developed a holistic, non-prescription solution for acne based on the research of Dr. James Fulton, a pioneer in acne research and co-creator of Retin-A. Laura has helped hundreds of acne sufferers with her program and this program was the one that cleared my skin in one month after years of unsuccessful trips to the dermatologist. It was only natural to train in this method because I know firsthand that it actually works. This training combined with my appetite to keep learning about skin science, ingredients, products, conditions, and treatments provides me with the tools to really help people in a results-driven way.
Why did you get into skin health, specifically with an emphasis on acne care?
I suffered from cystic acne during my teenage years and like most people, I desperately tried everything. I was prescribed every topical medication, bought expensive, useless products at the department store, used Proactiv until my face was raw, and finally went on two rounds of accutane. While on my second round of accutane, I had a nervous breakdown out of the blue (depression is a well known side-effect of the medication) and went through hell trying to get a dermatologist to spend more than five minutes helping me. I wanted to help people like me who are struggling with a skin condition and are not getting any attention or care from the medical professionals who are supposed to be helping them.
Does your speciality include those with sensitive skin?
Absolutely! In fact, I would say 99 percent of clients that come to me have sensitive skin from using harsh products and topical medications. Sensitive skin is usually just the result of using products that are not suited for your skin type and we can fix this quickly by healing the compromised skin, slowly building the skin’s tolerance for active ingredients, and then customizing a more appropriate product regimen.
You're also expanding your practice to include products and care for women who are pregnant or trying to get pregnant. Can you explain your thoughts on why they might need some special skin care and the skin challenges they face?
Most pregnant, expecting, and nursing women don’t even know that they should be using special skin care to keep their babies safe. Ingredients that are commonly used in cosmetics like beta hydroxy acids and retinoids are not recommended for pregnant women and there has been some evidence that they may cause harm to an unborn child. This can be challenging because the surging hormones of pregnancy can wreak havoc on our skin and trigger conditions like acne and melasma. I make sure that treatments and homecare products for pregnant and expecting women do not contain any harmful ingredients but still gear every treatment plan towards the results the client is trying to achieve.
Why do you love what you do?
Skincare for me is about so much more than doing facials and selling face creams, it is a medium through which I can touch people and make a difference. The beauty industry today sends such a negative message to women especially that somehow they are not good enough and need to be fixed. I want to spread a different message through my work. I named my company Acqua e Sapone because it literally translates to water and soap but when someone says, “you are beautiful acqua e sapone,” it means you are a natural beauty. I want all of my clients to be able to just wash their face in the morning and feel beautiful from the inside out. If I can help just one person look in the mirror and feel good about who they are, I feel like my work means something important.